Despite challenging conditions this season, the Peruvian Andes have delivered impressive achievements for a new generation of alpinists seeking ambitious objectives.

Although relatively modest in height at 5,830m, Tulliraju is considered one of the most difficult peaks in Peru's Cordillera Blanca. French climbing legend Lionel Terray, who made the first ascent in 1956, described it as one of the most demanding climbs in mountaineering history—a remarkable statement from the first ascensionist of Makalu, Fitz Roy, Chacraraju, and Jannu.

Both Terray's original route from the north and the Italian team's 1980 ascent of the south-southeast ridge are rarely repeated due to their extreme difficulty. Every other line on the mountain is considered even more challenging.

The first major success this season came from recent Piolet d'Or winners Dane Steadman and Cody Winckler of the United States. Together with Josh Wharton, they climbed the 800m Fowler/Watts Route on the east buttress of the southwest face, originally established by Mick Fowler and Chris Watts in 1982.

Their ascent marked only the fourth ascent of the route and its first free ascent.

The team faced sustained difficulties of AI5+, M8, and a short 5.10 rock section over five demanding days. Steadman and Winckler climbed every pitch free on sight, while Wharton used aid climbing on two short sections before also reaching the summit.

Snow Squalls and Difficult Bivouacs

Despite a promising weather forecast, the climbers encountered repeated snow squalls and difficult climbing conditions.

The hardest section came on the third day, where thin cracks, fragile flakes, and steep granite demanded precise mixed climbing. Above these crux pitches, they found no suitable bivouac ledges and spent three nights perched on top of a snow mushroom, including the night after reaching the summit.

On day four, the team fixed ropes through the final cliff band before free climbing the last difficult roof section. The fifth day saw them crossing surreal Andean snow formations, negotiating a false summit before reaching the true summit along a spectacular ridge lined with huge snow and ice cornices. In several places they passed through tunnels formed beneath the overhanging cornices rather than climbing over them.

After another night on the snow mushroom, they descended safely by rappel.

Steadman described the climb as:

"A beautiful route on a magnificent mountain, featuring some of the best rock and most spectacular positions I've ever experienced."

Italian Route Repeated

Only days later, Wadim Jablonski (Poland) and Adam Kaniak (Slovakia) completed the Italian Route, making only the fifth ascent of the line after four days on the mountain (July 5–9).

The route involved sustained difficulties up to ED2, M6, A1, AI5, and 100° snow and ice.

Jablonski said the climb demanded every skill they possessed, describing it as the most serious and demanding mountain ascent either of them had completed. The pair admitted the physical and mental effort left them emotionally overwhelmed as they approached the summit.

New Route on Siula Grande

The Peruvian Andes are also attracting a growing number of talented young climbers.

Italian alpinists Mattia Sandionigi (25), Pietro Saggiante (22) and Sandro Maranetto (26) completed a beautiful new 700m route on the East Buttress of Siula Grande (6,344m) during their first expedition to South America.

Best known as the mountain featured in Into the Void, where Joe Simpson survived one of mountaineering's greatest epics, Siula Grande lies in the Huayhuash Range.

Their climb, completed between July 9 and 12, featured difficulties up to 6c+ and AI5. The team stopped at the top of the rock buttress instead of continuing to the main summit because dangerous snow conditions made the upper slopes too hazardous—a common problem on many Andean peaks, where unstable snow cornices often guard the summits.

New Variation on Ranrapalca

Another impressive ascent followed between July 15 and 17, when young Polish climbers Dawid Bartoszek and Wiktor Smaglowski climbed the north face of Ranrapalca (6,162m) via a new variation that joins the upper section of the Pou Brothers' Ya Pe' Cholo Route.

Difficult Season in the Andes

These achievements come during a particularly unstable climbing season in the Peruvian Andes, where poor snow conditions have contributed to numerous accidents and rescue operations.

Last week, three climbers disappeared on Huascarán, prompting authorities to temporarily close Peru's highest mountain while search efforts continue.